Training Irish Terrier Ears
Irish Terrier ears may require assistance to maintain proper ear carriage.
Sometimes they hang too low, sometimes they fold backward, and sometimes they
don't fold at all. There are several accepted ways to correct these problems, and a lot will depend on the
thickness of the ears and their location on the head. Different ears need to be
set in slightly different positions to take this into account. If possible, a
new owner should seek their breeder’s help before attempting to perform this
task for the first time. They can then continue on their own.
According to the Standard of the Irish Terrier the ears should be small and
V-shaped; of moderate thickness; set well on the head, and dropping forward
closely toward the outside corner of the eye. The top of the folded ear should
be well above the level of the skull.
It is safe to say that virtually all Irish Terrier puppies, whether we are
talking about show or companion prospects, will need to have their ears set to
obtain the proper ear carriage. The amount of correction should be judged when
the puppy is alert and paying attention to another dog, cat, squirrel, rabbit
etc. The proper ear set is extremely important in transmitting the full beauty
that is so unique to the breed.
It should be stressed that ear setting (gluing) is not a once and done
process. Ear gluing typically starts at 10 to 12 weeks of age and can continue
until approximately 9 months of age. Most breeders use dog ear cement or
fabric/seam mender cement that remains flexible. Some puppies can be allergic to
one or more of these cements, so before gluing the ears check with your breeder
as to what they recommend. As has already been indicated, there are many factors
that can influence the ultimate success you have in setting your puppy's’ ears.
The following guidelines provides an overview of one method:
When
gluing the ears they must have the proper lift above the skull and the tip and
the outside edge of the ear must point towards the outside corner of the eye.
The photographs and instructions below should help you to accomplish this
goal. When gluing the ears there must be hair on the underside of the ear and on
the head. You must always glue hair to hair. Do not glue the ear to the head if
there is no hair on the underside of the ear or on the head.
The actual gluing procedure:
Positioning the ear
Place your finger under the ear just above the thickest ear cartilage. Let
the ear fall over your finger while directing the tip of the ear towards the
outside corner of the eye. With the ear in this position, pinch the ear along the fold line and note where the tip of
the ear touches the forehead.
Gluing for Location
Note the area of the forehead that is covered by the tip of the ear
(triangular area of forehead under the ear). Apply adhesive to this triangular area on the forehead
(do not use excessive glue) and rub it into the
hair. Apply glue to the corresponding area of the inside tip of the ear. Let the
glue dry for a few seconds. Press the ear down onto the forehead in the correct
location previously determined and hold it for thirty seconds to assure proper
adhesion.
Gluing for Lift
Stand behind the puppy and look down on the glued ear. You will see a
cup-like fold has been created at the inside base of the ear. Put a moderate
amount of glue in this “cup” and rub the glue into the hair on the ear and on
the head. With your fingers on the front inside corner of the ear near the top
of the fold, press the ear down onto the skull and hold for thirty seconds. This
secondary gluing helps to develop the proper lift. Once the ear has good lift
established this gluing is not necessary.
Precautions
a) To minimize the possibility of irritation or infection developing, many
breeders will apply Tincture of Benzoin to the areas that are to be glued. If
you use Tincture of Benzoin let it dry completely before applying the glue.
b) It is extremely important not to glue the entire ear down and seal it
against the head. There must always be an air passage through which air can
circulate into the ear. Generally, the outside edge of the ear is not glued to
itself. Glue only that portion of the outside edge of the ear that lies against
the head.
Proper location of air passage
Allow to Dry
Once both of the ears have been glued, hold the puppy for fifteen or twenty
minutes to allow the glue to dry and develop the proper adhesion. The puppy will
probably want to scratch its ears after gluing. Distract the puppy with toys or
treats. The puppy should get used to having its ears glued after a day or two
and will leave them alone. If you run into a situation where a puppy will not
leave its glued ears alone, you may want to talk to the breeder for their
suggestions.
Entire ear glued
Reaction to Gluing
It is possible that an ear irritation or infection may develop. To prevent
this, periodically give the glued ears the “sniff test”. Simply smell the ears
and if there is no odor, a normal doggy odor, or the odor of tincture of Benzoin
there is no irritation or infection. If, however, you detect a sour unpleasant
odor there is an infection starting. Free the infected ear from the head
immediately and clean out, treating any raw or irritated area with
anti-bacterial ointment. Wait for the irritated area to heal and the hair to
grow back before re-gluing.
Keeping the Ears Glued Down
After the ears have been glued you should make every attempt to keep them
stuck-down in position for two to three weeks. When the ears ultimately loosen
from the head and come unglued, clean the dried glue from under the ear and from
the head. You will probably have bare spots on the underside of the ear or on
the head. Some of these bare areas may be raw and irritated. Clean these areas
and put antibiotic ointment on the bare raw spots and let them heal. During the
next ten days to two weeks (while the bare spots are growing new hair) evaluate
the ear carriage, especially when the puppy is alert. The ear carriage may look
correct for the first couple of days. Gradually, however, the puppy may start to
carry them lower or perhaps higher as the ear muscle develops and the ear
cartilage hardens.
Adjustments
Once hair has grown back on the under part of the ear and on the head it may
be time to re-glue the ears. After the first couple of times the ears are glued you might
need to make
adjustments. If the puppy consistently carries the ears low, you should set the
tips of the ear higher on the head perhaps pointing more towards the center of
the eye than to the outside corner. Remember to glue hair to hair
only, never glue skin to skin.
Do Not Give Up
Particular attention should be paid to the puppy's ear carriage during the
teething period (roughly 16 weeks to 28 weeks). It is during this period that
good ears can become problem ears overnight. It is advisable to time your ear
gluing so that there will be hair on the ears and on the head in order to glue
the ears during this critical time. If you find yourself in the teething period
and do not have hair on the underside of the ears or on the forehead contact
your breeder for assistance.
The most important key to success in gluing ears is persistence and tenacity.
If you run into a unique ear setting problem don’t hesitate to contact your
breeder for help and advice.
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